Cartagena in Color: Colonial Streets to Coastal Eats
Santuario de San Pedro Claver in the walled city of Cartagena
After a spring trip to Medellín, we couldn’t wait to see more of Colombia and Cartagena did not disappoint. With its cobblestone streets, vibrant plazas, and Caribbean breezes, this historic city is made for wandering and savoring. We spent five days here, so you’ll find plenty of recommendations to choose from even if you’re only staying for a quick two-day getaway. If your time is short, start with a walking tour of the walled city to soak in the history and color, and don’t miss dinner at Carmen, one of Cartagena’s most celebrated restaurants.
Where to stay
For a unique boutique experience, stay at the Terrazas Hotel Boutique. This 12-room hotel is on the 5th floor of a building formerly housing a bank. While there are few amenities (no onsite restaurant, pool, or gym) the service is outstanding and every room has a terrace with gorgeous, sweeping city and water views. The location is perfect as well - right between the walled city (entrance at the clock tower across the street) and Getsemani. Continental breakfast is included and offerings include a variety of fresh fruit, cereal, homemade breads, coffee, and juice. If you want to be adjacent to the action, but not right in the mix, and appreciate the reasonable price, this hotel is a good option for you.
View from the terrace at the Terrazas Hotel
If you’re on a budget, try the Patios Suite Hostel. Rooms range from very low cost shared rooms to typical hotel rooms with private bath, some with private balcony. There’s a rooftop bar, pool, hot tub, and lobby level cafe at this lively and popular place. Wednesday nights feature dance lessons on the roof, which has great views of the area.
The Hilton Cartagena is a solid option if you want to be away from the bustle of the historic city center or want more modern amenities that a resort hotel offers. The pools are great, rooms spacious, there are several onsite restaurants and shops, and the cab ride to the walled city is just 20 minutes about $15-20.
A great option in Getsemani is the OSH Hotel. It has a hip and trendy vibe, great restaurant, and gorgeous pool in a tranquil interior courtyard where you can get away from the hustle and bustle outside. We loved dinner by the pool at the restaurant Carta Ajena, especially the crab and cheese rigatoni pictured below.
Places to eat
Carmen was the best restaurant we went to, with outstanding dishes, service, and ambiance. The lamb was a special treat highly recommended if it’s still on the menu when you arrive.
Ana has live music, inviting decor, and excellent food. Lunch there pleased the entire family - traditional ceviche, sushi, salmon tartar and a fabulous salmon dish with hummus.
Señor Titis was a treat for traditional fried food and chicharron, with a lively atmosphere, gorgeous hostess, and colorful and vibrant interior design.
Nautilus is a low key local spot with superlative seafood paella, natural juices, and a nautical theme throughout.
Viva la Vida wins the award for ambience and view - dining here was a rooftop experience we did not regret.
La Morena in Getsemani features sculptures and images of black female figures throughout the space. Try the well-flavored seven spice chicken dish.
Chingada is great for tacos and takeout.
Harry’s is a romantic place in the interior courtyard of the Charleston Santa Teresa hotel with both traditional food and other fare like pizza.
Cafe San Pedro across from both the Modern Art Museum and the San Pedro church had the friendliest service we received in Cartagena and a variety of offerings to please sophisticated tastes with adults and kids dining together.
Have dessert at Crepes and Waffles, a two story restaurant popular with locals (130 locations throughout Colombia) and almost always full.
Get drinks at Sofi Yes Liquor Store. It’s a bar as well as a store, with an energetic atmosphere and incredible murals outside.
Murals outside of Sofi Yes Liquor Store and Bar
Things to do
Enjoy a walking tour of the walled city and Getsemani. We did this with Nexperience via Viator and this was a great way to get oriented on our first day of travel with a friendly and knowledgeable local tour guide.
Calle de las Sombrillas (umbrella street) in Getsemani
Visit the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, one of Colombia’s most famous sites, and learn the history of the defensive walls that protected the city.
Take a two hour sunset cruise to see the cityscape from the water.
Sign up for Spanish lessons at Centro Catalina. Daily two-hour lessons for two people for a week was reasonably priced and included materials and activities like dance lessons in addition to the private instruction (group classes are also available). We got paired with outstanding teachers and after just a few days of one to one instruction could see improvement in our Spanish language ability. If there’s flexibility in your trip and you want to get better with Spanish, signing up for classes or tutoring is highly recommended. They also have a location in Medellin - check out the Medellin blog if you’d like to take classes with them there and need recommendations on activities.
Tour the Modern Art Museum. It’s small but has two floors of intriguing exhibitions, a very low entrance fee, and, unlike the rest of the walled city, isn’t crowded at all.
Get out of the heat to go shopping at La Serrezuela Mall, a historic building that previously hosted the circus and bullfighting. It now has upscale retail, many restaurant options, and a beautiful open space that couples rent for weddings and special events.
One of many fruit carts in Cartagena featuring mandarinas,papayas, pineapples, cherimoyas, manzanas, mangoes, pitahayas, sapotes
Before you leave, bring home one of Colombia’s signature exports and a great souvenir to gift - coffee beans. Juan Valdez has several storefronts and is a well-known option for a coffee purchase.
Next time…
With more time we would have taken a day tour to the Rosario Islands or to the nearby town of Palenque. Next time we’ll explore these places and update the post!